It’s a radically easier way to make confit; she is including full instructions in her completely revised “The Cooking of South-West France,” which will be available this fall. Wolfert hollers through the screen door to come up. Heat ½ cup oil over medium-low. I have to take it a little at a time.”. Add the greens and cook, mashing and stirring, until soft, dry and somewhat smooth, about 15 minutes. Add more chile if it isn’t spicy enough. Season with salt and stir in lemon juice and remaining ¼ cup oil. Of course there is much oohing and aahing over the dishes and the wines (the Sessionses bring Hanzell’s current 2002 Chardonnay and 2001 Pinot Noir, and the 1989 Pinot from their cellar). After freezing, they peel easily even without blanching. Turn the heat off but leave the mixture in the pan. “I’m 67 years old,” she says. She pulls off a piece and peppers it liberally. “It’s really a wonderful thing,” she says. (“We may not have very many good restaurants, but we must have a lot of good cooks, because somebody is buying this stuff,” she says.). 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil. It is a jam … Add garlic and coriander. 1 large bunch of flat-leaf parsley (about ¼ pound), stemmed, 12 oil-cured black olives (about 1 ounce), pitted, rinsed and coarsely chopped, 1 ¼ teaspoons Spanish sweet smoked paprika (pimenton de la Vera), 1 tablespoon lemon juice, or more to taste, Goat Cheese With Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Caramelized Garlic, Blackened Borscht With Spicy Feta Bread Crumbs, Fried Chicken Sandwich with Chili Crisp Mayo. Stir in the lemon juice; season with salt and pepper. This is her stopgap market. Wolfert made the stuffed grape leaves, plump with bulgur and bits of chopped dried figs, a couple of days ago and kept them in the refrigerator. The table outside is set in Provencal tones of dark red and gold. They’re denser than most and less sweet, more cakelike than airy, like the difference between a great doughnut and a Krispy Kreme. Herb Jam With A Mediterranean Pedigree. There are apples braised in orange flower water as well, and she quickly volunteers to prepare a little croustade to go along with the other two desserts she’s serving this afternoon. “You have to do this when you live on a mountain and don’t drive.”. For cutting, she prefers paring knives and scissors, the way women in the Middle East do. 1 lb. Herb Jam with Olives and Lemon Recipe. Add chopped greens and herbs and cook, stirring often, until most of the moisture is cooked out of the greens, 10–15 minutes. (Stir the herb jam mixture often as the water evaporates; it will want to stick.). Pick out garlic and transfer to a small bowl; using a fork, smash to a paste. “These are dishes that are meant to be cooked and shared. And you get used to that peculiar sense of direction -- or lack thereof -- that comes with being a constant passenger. Absolutely fantastic recipe. Wolfert prowls the aisles, pointing out the eight kinds of butter, the bread from Bouchon and Acme bakeries, the old-fashioned meat counter and the very good cheese selection. —David Tanis. Otherwise, what have I been doing with my life? “That’s the only way I can cook. Opt out or, 1½ pounds various greens and herbs (like chard, kale, broccoli rabe, dill, marjoram, parsley, cilantro, celery tops and scallions, and outer leaves of lettuce or similar greens), small hot red chiles (dried) or a pinch of crushed red pepper, 1½ tablespoons cumin seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant, then ground, cup roughly chopped pitted black olives, such as Kalamata, or oil-cured, Pinch of pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika), Put the greens and herbs and garlic cloves all together in a large steamer set over medium-high heat, and steam until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Among its virtues: It tastes wonderful and lasts for a week or more in the refrigerator; it is great when spread on toasted bread or stirred into a soup; and it uses greens, like the outer leaves of lettuce, that would otherwise be wasted. In fact, most of today’s menu was prepared well in advance. Place garlic in a large pot. “You kiss each woman on each cheek, and you touch your heart. Using a wooden spoon, mash garlic into greens mixture and stir to combine. As the guests arrive, they gather in the kitchen, sipping wine, helping cook and generally milling about. In the meantime, members of the bakers’ guild in Bordeaux, where the recipe comes from, had joined together and agreed to keep the technique a secret -- a vow that they have apparently held to, leaving her in sole possession of the true recipe. Drain greens, let cool and squeeze out moisture; pick out the tougher herb stems if necessary. But Wolfert isn’t entirely comfortable with praise. Layer greens and herbs over. Add the garlic, olives, paprika, cayenne and cumin. Turn the heat off but leave the mixture in the pan. To serve, return to room temperature. Wolfert calls this traditional savory spread made of wild-foraged leaves an herb jam. NYT Cooking is a subscription service of The New York Times. I can’t do it all in one day because I’m such a crazy person. Peel the steamed garlic and mash it into the pan … She fell so deeply in love with it that now he lives and works in the city during the week and drives up on the weekends to join her. She’s alternately bossy and generous, scholarly and gleeful, and always passionately involved and obsessively consumed with getting things just exactly right. This is a great recipe to use up greens and herbs! Put the garlic cloves in a large steamer basket set over a pan of simmering water. Am going to boil the jars as in regular jam making so I can make in quantity. “It will take me three minutes, really.”, “Between this machine and the Internet, I’m taken care of,” Wolfert says. And this is the kind of food that restaurants don’t take the time to do anymore. It’s noon, and lunch is just about ready. Thomas Keller!”. But there is still some last-minute shopping to do, so off we go. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until well combined and flavors have melded, about 5 minutes more. (If you don’t have a steamer, use a large, deep skillet with a lid. “This is good, but when you get to five months, it’s out of this world,” she says. Wolfert made the stuffed grape leaves, plump with bulgur and bits of chopped dried figs, a couple of days ago and kept them in the refrigerator. “I depend on the kindness of strangers.”. Adapted from "This Is Camino," by Russell Moore and Allison Hopelain (Ten Speed Press, 2015).
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